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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.